Mods and Pic Page

 

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Non-pictured Modifications
  • All turbo-related hoses exchanged for 5/32" vacuum tubing.  This is a good mod for those who decide against boost controllers.  It gives at least 2psi, but don't do this mod unless you already have a boost gauge.
  • NGK 8mm blue wires and 6ES copper plugs (huge difference over platinum plugs).
  • DSS hi flow in-tank fuel pump.
  • Tiny round 40 watt Blazer fog lights (awaiting installation).
  • GTS Rear window wind deflector (adds a unique touch....have yet to see this on another DSM).
  • CenterForce Dual Friction performance clutch.
  • RedLine MTL tranny fluid in tranny and differentials.
  • 2.5" test pipe (need to install).
  • Jim McKenna setup (boost controlled manually from inside the car).

 

Wish List
  • 3.0" Dave Buschur exhaust with 4" exaust tip.
  • 3.0" downpipe.
  • Mitsubish "BIG" 16G turbocharger.
  • 3.0" hi-flow cat (will try to make this easily removable for testpipe).
  • Apexi Super Air/Fuel Computer (SAFC).
  • RC 550cc Injectors.
  • Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) Gauge (still debating which brand).
  • Greddy Profec B.

 


Manual Boost Controller Fabrication Instructions and List of Parts Needed:

 

A few simple warnings about playing with boost.

 

I'll keep this as simple as possible, for the not-so-technical people out there:

1. Your very first mod to your turbo car should be a boost gauge. Your boost gauge will tell you when other installs go wrong. It will also tell you when you have boost leaks due to faulty hosing or modifications. Your new boost gauge is your friend.

2. Before playing with boost pressure, you should see #1 above, then invest in a higher flow fuel pump. If you keep your boost below 17PSI on street gas, the stock fuel pump should serve you well, but I'm picky about the safety of my engine (you should be too) and decided to just spend a few extra dollars in safety on a fuel pump upgrade.

3. There's nothing like the dual safety net of a boost gauge (see #1) and fuel pump upgrade (see #2).

4. An Air/Fuel (AF) gauge also does wonders and an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge is highly desirable but expensive.

5. The more you modify your car, the more important you should follow these steps. Anyone modifying their car should follow the instructions in #1 and #2. If you fancy yourself a street racer and live for boost, then you should also heed the advice of #4 and #5.

6. If you don't understand the instructions, you'd better ask for clarification at talon@dsm.org or check Club DSM's archives

Summary: Before doing ANY of the below modifications, you'd better be sure you install a boost gauge! This is very important. Your boost gauge will tell you when other installs go wrong. Seriously, you can melt internal engine components if you aren't careful and don't monitor what you do. YOU ARE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR to your car. Use the below instructions at your own peril!

 

  • Layout #1: Use this with a Hartz fishtank bleeder valve.
  • Layout #2: A variation of the above layout. This is the schematic I first used.
  • Layout #3: This schematic depicts Jim McKenna's cockpit mounted MBC. I now use this system (pictured here to the left of the shiftknob...the yellow knob).
  • For purchase of bleeder valve to fabricate a manual boost controller, order these parts from Grainger's Catalog: part #s 2z767 and 6zf65. See Layouts #1, 2, and/or 3 for install instruction schematics. If you decide not to install a manual boost controller, I recommend replacing all hoses related to the "T" with 5/32" vacuum tubing.  That should give you 1 to 2 lbs of extra boost to play with.

 

Get your parts from the below sites:
  • Try Road Race Enginnering, located in Santa Fe Springs, CA.  They specialize in roadracing, but do alot of go-fast mods for DSMs, Evolutions, and even Subaru WRXs and STIs.

 


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